Simple Tips to Improve Your Sewing

My sister, Pat, is one of the most beautiful sewist that I know.  At times she is a little too OCD for me but she turns out projects that are what we all want--projects that look polished and professional.  I asked her for some tips on how she does it. 

Here is what she shared with me.

1.) Press, press, press, and press

Pressing can make all the difference in how polished and professional a piece looks

Did you say press?  Pressing can turn a limp dishrag-looking project into a stunning blouse.   Before you cut out your fabric, press it smooth.  This will help you get more accurately shaped pieces. If your pattern is creased, give that a press too on a low, dry setting. If you’re folding over the edge of the fabric to stitch it as a hem give it a press.  This will flatten and neaten it before stitching. 

2) Highlight the seam allowance guide

Using painter's tape to highlight a 5/8" seam allowance

Don’t just assume that any old seam allowance will work for every project.  A slight miscalculation in your seams for one part of your project could mean that the entire project comes out catawampus, or the wrong size, or simply nothing matches up.  The seam allowance guide lines on your sewing machine's needle plate tell you how far you're stitching from the edge of the fabric.  Line up the edge of the fabric with the guides to sew with a consistent seam allowance.  If you find these lines difficult to see or if you are using an old machine that doesn't have them at all, you can highlight your seam allowance with a strip of painter's tape or washi tape.  Painter's tape and washi tape can be removed and replaced again and again.  They will not leave a residual gluey gunk on your machine.   This will not only help you achieve perfect seam allowance but the tapes look pretty, too!

3.) Stay stitching

Stay stitch

“Stay stitching” is a simple row of stitches to help hold the shape of a piece of fabric. Stay stitching is useful on diagonal cutting lines or curved areas such as necklines.  Cutting on the bias makes these areas susceptible to stretching.  It’s also a good idea to stay stitch handles or ties in place and stay stitch over folds of fabric, such as tucks and pleats, to help hold them in place.

4) Use pins wisely

Too many or too few

There are times when you should use lots of pins.  If you're sewing slippery fabric such as Minky or if you're sewing together two or more pieces of fabric that don't lie flat on top of one another such as a gathered skirt to a non-gathered bodice then using lots of pins will help you get a neat result. At other time lots of pins can have the opposite effect. Such as when you are putting in a zipper if you use too many pins your zipper will pucker and not lay flat.   Sometimes it is best to use no pins and to baste things in place.  For basic assembly, keep the number of pins to the minimum you need to hold the pieces in place.

One more tip on pinning is to pin perpendicular to the edge with the pin heads sticking out so they don't distort the fabric.I have seen lots of sewing videos on YouTube that have the pins parallel to the edge. 

Online Sewing Class

5) Draw the stitching line onto your fabric

Drawing the stitching line on the fabric



This might sound like cheating but don't always trust eyeballing the seam line.  If something like box corner need to be square or you are preparing to sew a corner try drawing the stitching line onto the wrong side of the fabric (or interfacing) to help you see where you need to stitch or pivot your stitching.  Remember to use a chalk pencil or washable pen so the marking comes out afterwards!

6.) Use the right needle

Use the right needle for the right project

It does not matter what sewing machine you are using or how much you paid for it, if the sewing machine needle is not good or the right kind, it will not sew properly.  The needle is where the "rubber meets the road."  Take the time to learn what needle works best for what fabric. 

This is my go-to place when I am looking for just the right needle for my project--the website for the Schmetz Needle Co.  The chart found on this website can help you choose your needle size according to your thread weight and your needle type according to your fabric thickness.

7.)  Finish the seams

A garment should be as beautiful inside as out.  Learning and using the different seam finishing techniques is a clear cut sign of a professional.  Start by learning how to overcast your fabric edges.  Even a simple zigzag stitch helps in keeping your sewing seams flat and lasting longer. Check your machine and look at your pressure feet for added stitches that can help make your sewing project look more professional.

Do you have any tips for how to improve the overall quality of your sewing with a simple step?  I''d love to hear yours  – please share in the comments!

Even the most professional sewist started at the beginning. You're not making mistakes, just memories and progress!