Travel Trash Stasher
/You can build up a lot of trash in a car on a road trip. And you can build up a lot of trash just running around town. Plastic bags from the grocery store will do the trick of keeping the trash corralled until you can stow it in a trash receptacle but it is not very stylish. I have had it in mind for awhile to make a laminated Trash Stasher for my car but I have been putting it off. I finally decided it was time. I like the idea of a laminated trash stasher because it can be rinsed out if it gets messy or sticky. So not only is it stylish but it is practical, economical, and green. You can't get much better than that. Unless it is also pretty, fast and inexpensive...why, oh why, have I waited so long?
travel trash Stasher
What you will need
Materials for the travel Trash Stasher
2 18 X 13 inch rectangles of coordinating laminated fabric
12 inches of grosgrain ribbon
Coordinating thread, binder clips or Clover wonder clips, marking pen or pencil, a Microtex sharp needle, and a Teflon® coated presser foot is very helpful.
Microtex Sharp Needles
The needle is where "the rubber meets the road." You can have a very expensive sewing machine but if you do not have the right needle for the project it will not come out as professional looking. I used the Microtex sharp needle. The Microtex needle has a very thin, accurate point and leaves a very small hole in the laminated fabric. Laminated fabric does not "heal" when you pierce it with the needle. That hole is there to stay. This is also why I use binder clip instead of regular pins. The binder clips can be used to hold the edges of your fabric pieces together in lieu of using pins. Regular pins leave permanent holes in the laminated fabric.
Teflon® coated presser foot
Laminated fabric or coated fabric tends to stick to the presser foot. Teflon® coated presser foot makes the sewing go much more smoothly. However, if you do not have a Teflon® coated presser foot, masking tape or blue painter’s tape cut to fit the bottom of your regular presser foot will allow the laminated coating to slide through your machine more easily.
What you will do:
Step One:
clipping the edges instead of pinning
Fold the two rectangles of fabric in half right sides together (RST.) I hold the sides together with the binder clips. Stitch down the long side and across the bottom of the exterior rectangle. I used a 3.5 as it seems to work better when I am sewing on coated or laminated fabric. But you should at least lengthen the stitch to at least 3.0 mm. You can use a 1/4 or 1/2 inch seam allowance just be consistent throughout the entire project. Do the same to the interior rectangle leaving a 3 1/2 inch opening on the side. Remember to back stiitch the starting and stopping points especially at the opening. You do not want to pull out stitches out when you go to turn it.
Step Two:
boxing the corners
Open up the bag and make sure it is square. We are going to box the corners. Line up one of the lines on the ruler with the center seam. Place the edge of the ruler where it measures two inches across from the seam on both sides. Use a pencil or a marking pen to draw the line. It does not make a difference if you use a pencil or pen as this is on the inside of the bag and will not be seen. Do the same thing for the other corner and repeat for the lining.
Trim the corners on the line
Sew along the line with the edge of the presser foot right along side the line. Trim the corners. You will use the line to cut off the corner.
Step Three
Stay stitch the ribbon on
Fold the grosgrain ribbon in half and attach to the exterior bag. Place it on top of the seam of the exterior piece and stay stitch in place. Turn the interior lining right side out. Leave the exterior bag inside out.
Insert the lining into the exterior bag
Insert the lining into the exterior bag right sides together. Line up the seams. You can either open the seams flat or turn one seam in one. This way you can nest the seams together when you line up the top edge. Stitch the top edge of the bag with a 1/4 inch seam allowance.
Step Four
Pull the lining out of the bag
Pull the lining out of the bag. Find the opening in the side of the lining.
pulling the exterior panel out and turning the bag right side out
Reach in and pull the lining out of the bag. Find the opening in the side of the lining and reach in and pull the exterior of the bag through it.
closing the opening
Once you get it all out, make sure the boxed corners are pushed out, then stitch up the opening with about an 1/8 inch seam. I like to squeeze out the excess air before I sew the opening closed. It makes it easier to insert the lining into the bag once the opening is sewn shut.
Step Five
top stitching the top of the travel trash stasher
Tuck the lining inside the bag. Roll the seam between your fingers and thumb to line up the seam. Do not press. Instead use the binder clips to hold in place before you top-stitch around the edge. Stitch around the top of the bag with a 1/4 inch allowance.
The travel Trash stasher
The trash stasher is done in not time at all. I like it with the cuff turned down but you can use it without a decorative cuff.
trash stasher with hanger
With the cuff turned down
Without the cuff
This is a very simple project to begin with if you are new to sewing with laminated fabric. Here are a few tips to remember.
1.) You don’t need to straighten the grain on laminated fabric. It doesn’t shift because of the coating.
2.) The laminated coating will keep the raw edges from fraying.
3.) When sewing your fabric pieces together use a longer stitch length (3mm or larger). Shorter stitch lengths create too many holes and can weaken the seams.
4.) Stitch slowly as you gently guide your fabric through your sewing machine to help keep it from puckering. If the fabric begins to pucker in front of your presser foot, stop, and use the hand wheel on your machine to walk your needle through the small pucker.
I hope you give this project a try. If you do I hope you will share your pictures.
